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Fertilization of melons should be six
When it comes to soil fertilization, the approach varies depending on the soil type and the method used. Light loam has excellent nutrient retention and release properties, allowing for more frequent and generous applications. Sandy loam, on the other hand, requires more careful handling—fertilization should be done in smaller amounts and more frequently to avoid wastage and ensure efficient nutrient uptake. Organic fertilizers, once decomposed, can become too concentrated if overused, which may harm plant growth.
Secondly, seedling fertilization should follow the principle of "small seedlings, stable flowering, and heavy fruiting." During the early growth stage, nitrogen is the primary nutrient needed to support healthy development. As the plant progresses, a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium becomes essential. However, different varieties have different needs. Early-maturing types have a shorter vegetative period and require more emphasis on promoting growth from the start to ensure high yields. Late-maturing varieties, with their longer growth cycle, need a balance between growth control and promotion to maintain steady development. For melon seedlings, a 10% to 15% solution of diluted manure water is typically used, gradually increasing to 30% to 40% as the plants mature.
Third, climate plays a key role in fertilization decisions. In summer, high temperatures accelerate fertilizer breakdown, and heavy rainfall can lead to nutrient leaching. To counter this, small and frequent applications are recommended, along with the use of well-decomposed farmyard manure that can be spread evenly. On sunny days, less rain means better fertilizer retention, so timing is crucial.
Fourth, the type of crop also influences the choice of fertilizer. Legumes like beans have rhizobia that fix atmospheric nitrogen, so they require less nitrogen but more phosphate. Root vegetables and yams benefit more from potassium, while leafy vegetables thrive with higher nitrogen levels. Fruit-bearing vegetables need a balanced mix, with nitrogen as a base and additional phosphorus and potassium for optimal fruit development.
Fifth, the type of fertilizer used matters. Ammonium bisulfate and human waste are acidic and should not be mixed with alkaline materials like wood ash, as this reduces effectiveness. Similarly, superphosphate should not be combined with acidic fertilizers. Ammonium sulfate and urea can cause leaf burn if applied directly to seeds or foliage. Urea used as a top dressing should not exceed a 1% concentration. Ammonium chloride and potassium chloride are unsuitable for chlorine-sensitive crops like potatoes.
Lastly, the form of fertilizer also affects application methods. Farmyard manure is long-lasting and ideal for base fertilization, while chemical fertilizers act quickly but lack complete nutrients and may cause excessive growth if overused. They are best suited for top dressing and small amounts of base fertilizer. Ammonium bicarbonate is volatile and works best as a base fertilizer; if used as a top dressing, it should be placed 10 cm away from the roots and covered immediately. Urea is commonly used for top dressing and should be applied 4–6 days in advance to maximize its effect. Phosphate fertilizers have limited mobility and are best used as seed or root-side top dressings. When applying, it's important to dig a trench and place the fertilizer near the root zone for maximum absorption.
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