During the application of heavy-duty anti-corrosion paint, several common quality issues often arise, such as blistering, peeling, or poor adhesion between layers. These problems typically occur when the topcoat is applied too soon after the primer, causing the paint film to expand, shrink, wrinkle, or develop bubbles. In some cases, the underlying coating may lose adhesion and even be lifted off by the solvent in the top layer. This issue is usually due to a mismatch between the primer and the topcoat, especially when a coating with a strong polar solvent is applied over one made with a less polar solvent. For example, applying lacquer over rosin-based resin, alkyd paint over anti-corrosive lacquer, or oxidized rubber coatings over alkyd varnishes can lead to this kind of damage. Another common mistake is applying the next coat before the previous layer has fully dried. For instance, if you apply a second coat of vinyl chloride varnish without allowing the first coat to dry completely, it can cause the bottom layer to soften and lift. Using an overly strong thinner during the application of the top coat can also cause swelling and damage to the primer. To avoid these issues, it's important to follow the recommended drying times and coating intervals provided by the manufacturer. In cold weather, extending the interval between coats can help ensure proper adhesion and reduce the risk of defects. When working with special types of coatings, the "wet-on-wet" technique can be used, where the second coat is applied while the first is still wet, improving adhesion. However, this method should only be used for compatible coatings. If a different type of paint is required, it's essential to check compatibility and, if necessary, sand the surface, apply a filter coat, and clean it thoroughly before repainting. Once a coating has started to "bite" or lift, it can no longer provide protection or decoration, so the affected area must be scraped out, re-prepared, and repainted properly. To prevent such issues, always apply the first coat thin and allow it to dry completely before applying the second. Avoid applying thick layers at once, as this can trap solvents and prolong drying time. The amount of thinner used should not exceed 5% of the total paint volume, and the same type of thinner should be used throughout the process. Avoid using weak polar diluents on the bottom coat, and instead use stronger polar solvents like acetone, esters, or high-boiling aromatic solvents for the top coat. Following these guidelines can significantly improve the durability and appearance of the painted surface. The dry steam sauna, also known as the dry sauna or dry steam room, is a type of sauna that uses dry heat to create a relaxing and detoxifying experience. dry heat sauna room,dry sauna,traditional sauna,dry heat sauna Foshan Nanhai Halo Sanitary Ware Co., Ltd. , https://www.halospas.com
The dry steam sauna is typically made of wood, with a small heater that heats up rocks or stones. These heated stones then radiate the heat into the sauna, creating a warm and dry environment.
The dry steam sauna is designed to promote sweating and detoxification. As the body heats up, the sweat glands are activated, helping to eliminate toxins and impurities from the body. This can have numerous health benefits, including improved circulation, increased metabolism, and enhanced immune system function.
In addition to its detoxifying properties, the dry steam sauna also offers relaxation and stress relief. The warm and dry environment can help to relax muscles, relieve tension, and promote a sense of calm and well-being. Many people find the dry steam sauna to be a great way to unwind and de-stress after a long day.
Paint lecture hall: how to prevent heavy anti-corrosive paint biting bottom foaming
Jc001.load('iframe') JIFrame.create({ 'url' : '/go.php?action=ads&iframeHeight=250&isIframe=1&key=%CD%BF%C1%CF&pos_id=jc001_news_detail_30&reqkey=1&style=margin%3A15px+15px+25px+0%3B+height%3A255px%3Bwidth%3A255px%3B+float%3Aleft%3B', 'height' : 250 })