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Fertilization of melons should be six
When it comes to soil fertilization, the approach varies depending on the type of soil and the method used. Light loam has excellent fertility retention and nutrient supply capabilities, so it can be fertilized more frequently and in larger quantities. Sandy loam, on the other hand, should be fertilized multiple times but with smaller amounts to avoid waste. Organic fertilizer, once decomposed, can become too concentrated, which may harm the plants if not managed properly.
Secondly, when it comes to seedling fertilization, the key principle is to "fertilize lightly during the early stage, balance during flowering, and heavily during fruiting." In the initial growth phase, nitrogen is the main nutrient needed, while in the middle and later stages, a combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium becomes essential. Different varieties also have different needs—early-maturing types have a shorter vegetative period, so they require more attention to early growth and foundation building for high yield. Late-maturing varieties have a longer vegetative phase, so the focus should be on balanced growth rather than excessive promotion. For melon seedlings, a 10% to 15% solution of clear manure water is typically applied, gradually increasing as the plant grows. By the later stages, this concentration can reach 30% to 40%.
Third, climate plays a significant role in fertilization. During summer, high temperatures speed up fertilizer breakdown, and heavy rains can wash away nutrients. Therefore, it's best to apply small amounts of fertilizer at a time, using well-decomposed farmyard manure that can be spread evenly. On sunny days, less rain means better fertilizer retention.
Fourth, different crops have varying fertilizer requirements. Legumes, such as beans, benefit from rhizobium bacteria that fix atmospheric nitrogen, so they need less nitrogen and more phosphate. Root vegetables like carrots and yams require more potassium. Leafy vegetables, such as spinach or lettuce, need more nitrogen. Fruit-bearing vegetables, like tomatoes or peppers, need a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, especially during the fruiting stage.
Fifth, proper fertilizer selection and application are crucial. Ammonium bisulfate and human excrement are acidic and should not be mixed with alkaline fertilizers like wood ash, as this reduces efficiency. Similarly, superphosphate should not be mixed with acidic fertilizers. Ammonium sulfate and urea can burn plant roots, stems, or leaves if applied directly. Urea should not exceed a 1% concentration when used as a top dressing. Ammonium chloride and potassium chloride should not be used on chlorine-sensitive crops like potatoes.
Lastly, understanding the characteristics of different fertilizers is important. Farmyard manure is long-lasting and suitable as a base fertilizer, while chemical fertilizers act quickly but lack complete nutrients and may cause overgrowth if used excessively. Ammonium bicarbonate is highly volatile, so it should be used as a base fertilizer. If used as a top dressing, it should be placed 10 cm away from the root and covered promptly to prevent damage. Urea is best applied 4–6 days before use to ensure full effectiveness. Phosphate fertilizers have low mobility and are best used as seed or top dressing, applied directly into the root zone for maximum absorption.
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